Dawn is a symphony of pumpkins, saffron and pale purple colors burning in the eastern sky from our dormitory window. As the sun slowly rises, a salmon-pink carpet spreads over the limestone. I saw it for the first time then.

Behind our hut looms the Naranjo de Brunes, a smooth, vertical rock wall that rises defiantly over 500 meters. Naranjo de Brunes is not the highest of these mountains, but it is the most famous.

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