As the train turns around the tracks, the mountains get higher and higher. The valley narrows, with steep limestone on both sides, clusters of pine trees, below which is a torrent river, and trains run beside it.
Leaving the historic town of Chur, we are in the Rhine Valley. It’s only been 10 minutes on the train, but it’s already glued to the windows.
Some people have trains like the Orient Express on their wishlist, but my dream has always been to have the Glacier Express all over Switzerland. The route runs from the alpine resort of St. Moritz in the southeast to the ski resort Zermatt at the foot of the Matterhorn in the southwest. Along the way, you’ll pass through Alpine villages, green meadows, rivers, lakes, and snow-covered passes and glaciers named after trains.
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The Glacier Express passes through the breathtaking Matterhorn. Photo: Glacier Express / Stefan Schlumpf
The word “express train” should not be interpreted literally, as it takes seven and a half hours to travel 291 km. This is the slowest express train in the world, but it’s a great day to move slowly while admiring the scenery when the train runs out. Through the Alps, wind along the Rhine canyon and climb over the snow-covered mountain pass of Oberalp.
The Glacier Express has been in operation since 1930 and has 291 bridges and 91 tunnels on this route. After postponing the trip for two years (due to pandemic reasons), I was excited to fly to Zurich Airport, take the train to Central Station, then spend the night by train to Chul, and then join the Glacier Express the next morning. I am.
This is the first section of the week to cross Switzerland by train, so no rental car or tour bus is required. I will look at everything comfortably.
In the Rhein Valley, light green water flows along the rough riverbed of gray stones and rocks, and a white hat above the water hints at a torrent below. At some stage, you can see people rafting in the distance.
On the train, everything is calm. The Glacier Express is smooth and surprisingly quiet. My little wooden table is set with napkins, cutlery and suitable glasses. This is a change from the regular flasks and crushed sandwiches I have on my train journey. My excellence class ticket includes a 7-course dining experience. The menu includes smoked trout, peamint soup and Swiss beef tenderloin. There is a row of wine glasses and the waiter is already filling the champagne glasses. Who manages full cheese plates and chocolate cakes?
Since each table in my carriage has only two seats, every seat has windows (and windows on top), an iPad with headphones, and an app that provides text and audio information about what’s going through. I have. The Rhine runs 1200 km from here via six countries into the North Sea of the Netherlands. According to the app, cars are banned in the canyon area, so there are many rare flora and fauna such as ibex, golden eagles and wolves.
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Animals along the Glacier Express route. Photo: Glacier Express / Stefan Schlumpf
On the way, we will stop at a small station. The Valendas-Sagogn station is located in a beautiful wooden chalet with red shutters on the windows. Another station has a daffodil window box. As we emerge from the canyon, the valley extends into green pastures, some with grazing cows, and homes high on the green slopes. It is snowing on the distant mountain peak.
Things start to get exciting as the train rises and the snow on the summit gets lower and lower until it completely covers the hillside. When you enter the tunnel, when you go out to the other side, it suddenly snows and the whole landscape becomes pure white.
The Glacier Express train heading in the opposite direction passes us. There is nothing else here except the empty road. Only these two red trains intersect in this vast white snow valley. It feels like a Bond movie.
The highest point on the route, the Oberalp Pass, is 2033 meters above sea level, where you can stop by to take pictures with the fresh mountain air (it is recommended to wear layers for different temperatures inside and outside the train). ). In this part of the route, you often need to remove the snow from the truck.
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Oberalp Pass in winter. Photo: Glacier Express / Stefan Schlumpf
When traveling again, I walk along the train and pass by an American couple, Katie and Justin, who are trying to push into a chocolate cake.
They are based in Paris, have previously been in Switzerland, and say they have returned just to drive the train this time.
“We love the scenery. We’re so lazy that we can see everything without hiking,” Katie laughs.
I get off the train at Brig and take another train towards Geneva to the resorts of Montreux and Lausanne on Lake Geneva (often called Lake Geneva).
This is a different world from the snowy mountains. Here, magnificent 19th-century hotels line the Riviera, with terraces and balconies overlooking Evian-les-Evans, France, across the lake. Chic guests with small dogs and oversized sunglasses drank champagne on the terrace and stroll along the promenade of Montreux, home of the legendary jazz festival.
From Montreux, take the Golden Pass train to Chateau Day and leave the lake to the world of lush mountain meadows lined with traditional wooden chalets. I go hiking, electronic cycling, riverside paths, wildflower meadows, trains and day trips to Rougemont and Gustard.
In the evenings, the local restaurant in a traditional wooden building serves Rosti (potato dishes), raclette (cheese), ragoo and, of course, Swiss wine.
It’s a relaxing week. Trains run frequently and are never full. No need to reserve a seat (except for the Glacier Express). This makes everything very easy when you have a rail pass. Everything is connected and the train runs to the airport.
On the final day, I took the train back to Geneva Airport around the lake and glued it to the window to the end.
Do it
The Swiss Travel Pass, which allows you to travel by train, bus or boat, costs 228 euros / 362 euros (second / first class) for 3 days and 421 euros / 662 euros (second / first class) for 15 days. rail.myswitzerland.com
Glacier Express fares range from € 92 to € 289, depending on the length of the trip and the class. Add 458 euros to excellence class. glacierexpress.ch
Aer Lingus flies from Dublin to Geneva and Zurich. Yvonne was a guest of the airline and the Swiss Tourism Board. aerlingus.com; myswitzerland.com
Take 3: Swiss Rail Trip
Bernina Express
The tallest railway in the Alps runs from Chur via St. Moritz to the Italian town of Tirano, passing through Lake Poschiavo and the famous Landwasser Viaduct. berninaexpress.ch
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Golden pass. Photo: Valentin Flauraud
Golden pass
This line from Montreux to Lucerne has three trains, three passes and eight lakes. Some trains are retro-style Belle Epoque reconstructions. goldenpassline.ch
Grand Train Tour
The Grand Train Tour is 8 days and 7 nights and covers all panoramic trains and popular attractions. You can book a full tour package. myswitzerland.com/grandtraintour
